Andover Townsman, Andover, MA

Opinion

August 19, 2010

Editorial: Successful changes cooked up in school lunchrooms

We often criticize officials for refusing to stand up for the taxpayer and change the status quo. So today we raise a glass - filled with a healthy smoothie, of course - to the Andover school system's food services department. You know, the group known to many of us as the "lunch ladies." Led by director Gail Koutroubas, they have connected with their "clients," the children, and revamped school lunches. They've substantially improved the quality of their food and its popularity without drawing a dime from local taxes.

While the food services department does receive some money from the state and federal government (about 24 cents from the federal government and 5 cents from the state for each $2.50 meal), it is largely a self-supporting enterprise. Money raised by selling lunch pays for the food itself and for the salary and benefits of school-lunch employees, said Koutroubas. That puts some pressure on cafeteria workers to perform, and they seem to have responded. Lunch is fresher, more healthy and more interesting than perhaps it ever has been. Mystery meat has been replaced by California rolls.

Since Koutroubas took over four years ago, there has been a steady movement toward providing more healthful meals made from scratch. More fresh ingredients are used. Fried foods and junk foods have been on the outs. Elementary students will be able to get hummus and pita bread for a snack this year, and high school students can chow down on lunch choices such as Greek salads and cooked and vegetable sushi rolls. A snack bar that used to serve salty and sweet goods like Doritos and soda will offer popcorn and fruit smoothies. With more than one in four Massachusetts youth said to be obese, change was needed. A new state law will further bring Andover down this road, essentially banning the sale of candy, cupcakes and similar items by groups looking to raise money during the school day and during the 30 minutes immediately before and after school. Notably, the change to more healthy food has not turned away students, but more than doubled their interest.

How? The lunch ladies - er, school nutrition professionals - sound as if they've taken a page from Business 101. They connect with their clients. Nutrition professional Janet Volker was nominated for the Mary French Award last year, an award that normally goes to teachers who work well with special needs students. She was nominated because she connects with all students, and has done unusual work with special needs students in her cafeteria. Many workers across the system volunteered to take a free Friday night and all-day Saturday training program earlier this year. As a whole, the group is obviously creating food that the children enjoy. The numbers don't lie. In the last four years sales have gone from $1 million to $2.2 million.

Perhaps the workers' willingness to try new things on the plate has led to other creative ideas. A pilot program at High Plain Elementary School this year will try sending students to recess before lunch for the first time. Many people probably remember tossing their lunches in the barrel, untouched, for the chance at a few more minutes on the playground. That still happens, confirms Koutroubas who says, "It's amazing what you'll see in the trash." Andover leaders hope having recess first will allow children to settle down and spend more time eating their food. This should lead to more attentive and energetic kids in the afternoon. Certainly, it's worth a try.

In this era of inflated public-sector pensions, platinum parachutes, free rides and out-of-this-world benefits, it can seem that many public leaders and employees are out of touch and unwilling to embrace any change. Not so in this department. It's clear the test kitchen in each Andover school is turning out successful products at a reasonable cost.

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